Cycle Touring in France: Le Havre

We travelled over the Pont de Normandie and through the extensive docklands to our hotel in Le Havre. Supposedly from a tourist icon to a ugly town, but the tables were turned. Le Havre turned out to be one of the most interesting places we have visited. It is true that some of the housing built after the city was damaged in the war is quite drab, but the city was resigned by one architect who had some real vision. The streets are very wide and there are no skyscrapers, so you get a feeling of being in lots of space. There are views of the sea and river from most streets and the largest town square in France. The main church resembles a large lighthouse and from inside the stained glass is superb. There is also a beach and some hills surrounding the town. High up on one peak an old fort has been turned into an array of hanging gardens with plants from all over the world. It is free to enter and we spent over two hours walking around. They are also carrying out research on newly discovered species to see now they adapt to the French climate in lots of greenhouses that you can walk through for just one euro. The cafe is also excellent and some special delicacies that are flavored with scents such as rose and geranium. At the corner where the docks meets the beach there is a modern art gallery that has the best collection of impressionist works outside Paris and a top floor restaurant that looks out over the river and sea. We were really impressed with the works on show and also visited a renovated five story merchants house that was furnished with period items. Le Havre is a real working town and seems to be thriving. They are currently building a tramline to connect the town with beach and renovating the town square. A new stadium is being built on the outskirts and cycle paths are present on most roads. The old docks are now filled with retail centres a cinema and water park, having already been restored. They are filled with modern art and temporary exhibition spaces. Give me Le Havre over Honfleur. The latter has now lost most of what made it interesting in the first place and is now just full of tourists, cafes and gift shops.

Pont de Normandie (I do not recommend cycling!)